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In the Kitchen with James Martin

by Maria Clift

Much-loved presenter of BBC1’s hugely popular Saturday Kitchen, as well as author to countless successful cookbooks, it seems Britain’s most eligible bachelor chef James Martin, just keeps getting hotter. Flavour’s Maria Clift got the chance to catch up with the celebrity chef to grill ‘Sweet Baby James’ on just about everything from his idea of food ‘heaven’ and ‘hell’ to his keen interest in fast cars.

How did your career as a chef start up?

I actually started working in my mum and dad’s kitchen at the age of eight (years). They provided catering at Castle Howard, and I used to help out washing pots and pans. At nine, I had my own chef’s jacket and hat and was promoted to the main kitchen to help out with buttering bread and making sandwiches. I then decided that’s what I wanted to do at college, so I did a catering course at Scarborough, before heading down to train in London.

How did this progress to a career as a celebrity chef on television?

I just got lucky! I was spotted one evening at the restaurant where I was working in Winchester. A lady was dining with Lloyd Grossman one evening, and afterwards phoned up and said we may have something for you if you are interested, so it went from there. My first job on TV was The Big Breakfast with Chris Evans. Being a chef, you are always judged by what you do, whether it’s on television or not, so I’ve always felt it’s important to strive to do better, to keep learning, and I think it’s that determination that has seen me come this far.

Has being a professional chef enabled you to travel the world? If so, which country’s food influences you the most?

Well, you never get bored, that’s for sure. It’s taken me to some great places over the years. You can’t stop learning about food, it’s a massive industry and the world’s a very big place. But you know, I’m traditional, and British cuisine influences my cooking style the most, that with a hint of Mediterranean inspiration thrown in sometimes.

Most of our readers will recognise you from BBC1’s Saturday Kitchen – do you enjoy TV appearances?

Oh yeah, they’re great fun! We have a good selection of chefs, we’re all good friends and no one wants a full on cooking show at that time on a Saturday morning, so although we work very hard before and during the show, we want it to feel relaxed and fun for the 3.5 million viewers.

Have you ever had any embarrassing moments in the studios?

(James laughs) We have set fire to a few things! But in all honesty, it’s a great team that works on Saturday Kitchen, I’ve been working with James Winters, the producer, for years. We work through the week, going over the script and concepts so that we are as prepared as can be. I’m actually dyslexic, so without that preparation, I’m sure there would be lots more embarrassing moments.

What about other celebrity chefs? Are any of them more difficult to work with then they let on?

Put it this way, I work with the people I call friends, so I don’t have the difficult ones on my show.

If you had to pick between working in the kitchen or doing TV, which would it be?

Working in the kitchen. Television has been a wonderful experience for me over the years, especially considering I was taken on for a ‘two week trial’. But, you should never lose sight of where you came from. I’ve been lucky and I’m now able to dive in and duck out of it, but my real release is working in the kitchen with my team. I love it, all chefs mucking in together.

Who is the most famous person you have cooked for?

Without a doubt, Jackie Collins. When you think about all the people she has been associated with and worked with, all the things she has done over the years, she is just so Hollywood. She was a wonderful lady on the show, there were no airs or graces, she arrived by herself, no entourage or anything. She is an amazing and graceful woman. I was completely surprised by her.

You are doing the BBC Good Food show this month (June) and again in October, do you enjoy these events and meeting the British public?

Oh yeah! It’s the only time I get to meet these guys, greet the fans and sign the books. The shows are always good fun. I have James from Saturday Kitchen with me. He’s in the background, getting me through the live demos, and that’s what it’s all about. We can have a bit more fun with it when we are not on live TV.

And when you’re not working, what do you enjoy doing in your spare time?

Well I love my cars, and every year I book two weeks off and go to Goodwood where me and some of my friends will watch and race cars around. There’s a great mix of people there and you’ll always see Jenson Button, Lewis Hamilton and Jay Kay. I’ve also got my pilot’s licence now, so just recently I flew me and some mates in a small plane over to Le Mans to watch the racing, that was great fun.

What can always be found in your fridge?

I haven’t been home for days, so not a lot at the moment. But Diet Coke, Red Bull, Dairy Milk and a couple of packs of butter are staples of mine.

What’s your favourite kitchen gadget?

My must-have kitchen gadget is an American-style fridge freezer. I wanted the biggest appliance I could find that would simply chill and freeze my food.

Who would be your guests at your dream dinner party?

My family, because I am always all over the place and I don’t often get to spend time with my family. So my mum, my gran, it’d be great if I could have my great grandmother there too. I am a Yorkshire lad and to me, the best meals are always with family.

…and what would you serve?

Sunday roast every time - it’s my favourite dinner. My granny’s roast beef, my mum’s roast potatoes, which are the best. She cooks them in the beef dripping and they are out of this world. I always make the gravy and then a traditional British pudding to finish with.

Last but not least, we have to know…what’s your idea of ‘food heaven’ and ‘food hell’?

My ‘food heaven’ would be fresh white crab meat from Whitby, served with a bit of lemon juice and some bread and butter, that’s just beautiful. My ‘food hell’ is definitely horseradish or wasabi sauce. Both are just vile and they totally ruin any other flavours going on in the dish. Plus, you can’t taste anything afterwards!